The Philadelphia Peña and Taurino Club
Our Guide to the Festival of San Fermìn, Pamplona
Every year, it is with no small amount of anticipation that the ganadarias (bull ranches) from which the bulls will travel to Pamplona are announced. Later they are assigned dates, and the matadors are announced. As you get to know the ranches, you know which bulls will be very large, very fast, noble, and which are more likely to stay together.
This July will the first (1st) visit by Antonio Bañuelos. In multiple media accounts, the ranch is described as the "cold ranch," because of its located in Hontomín, Burgos, at one (1) thousand metres above sea level (what's a "metre?").
Further, the bulls are usually photographed in the snow, and we are warned they live in temperatures "114 days a year" where the temperature does not rise above zero. How is this helpful information? Will they do snow angels? Do they throw snow balls? Will they sweat a lot? Do they like sledding? What about the winter X-Games on ESPN?
Most people are not aware that bulls from Antonio Bañuelos are part-time snow board instructors, and love hot toddies. Further, they definitely do not wear mittens, but have been known to sport a jaunty muffler. They are terrible at hockey, well, because noone in Spain or France plays hockey well, which is overlooking the obvious. Ice dancing is a wholly different story.
A thought did occur to me. Many bulls lose their footing, and their speed at La Curva, and slip on the cobblestones. Just like me. Bulls from Antonio Bañuelos are, apparently, more familiar with icy surfaces. Just something else to worry about.
Peter M
June 6, 2007 – the Sixth (6th) Step Toward San Fermín
This final step toward la fiesta of 2007 seeks to serve the public interest by addressing the common problem of bull insomnia among adults. Bull insomnia is generally defined as the “perception or complaint of inadequate or poor-quality sleep while dreaming about the toro bravo,” because of one or more of the following: difficulty falling asleep after talking about bulls; waking up frequently during the night with difficulty returning to sleep because of dreams about bulls; waking up too early in the morning excited about running with the bulls; or un-refreshing sleep because you thought you saw a bull in the hallway outside the bedroom.
Insomnia can be classified as transient (short term) (October), intermittent (on and off) (April), and chronic (constant) (June). Causes of Bull Insomnia: Universally, the primary cause of bull insomnia is thinking about, talking about, or reading about Pamplona, or anything associated therewith, three (3) hours or less before you normally go to bed.
Treatment of Chronic Bull Insomnia: The treatment of chronic bull insomnia consists of adaption of behavioral techniques to improve sleep, such as relaxation therapy, sleep therapy, and reconditioning. Or, sheesh – just give it a rest a little! It's still another month!
Peter M
Well, there are only two (2) steps left until la fiesta. That last one is pretty easy. So, we’ve got our hotel and plane reservations. We’ve reserved a parking spot at JFK Airport outside New York City. I’ve got new white pants, and our 2007 t-shirts ordered. Ari has his back-up glasses all polished. We’re waiting patiently for the 2007 fiesta calendar.
The only vexing issue is the matter of the car reservations. At home, I drive an automatic vehicle (2001 Ford Explorer – Eddie Bauer Edition!).
In Pamplona, we can only (reasonably) rent a manual car. Sure, if money were no object (it is), we could rent a snazzy red sports car or limousine with chauffeur. The problem is, I haven’t driven a manual in a decade, and even if Ari knew how, I wouldn’t let him drive anyway.
So, we rented the manual, and figured we’d rent a manual here at home for a couple days of test driving. Funny thing though. No one has a manual car to rent us here. This is known in literary circles as "irony."
So if you see a transmission lying in the middle of the road in Pamplona, you’ll know we’ve driven past recently. But seriously, if you know where we can rent an automatic, just give me a call. Seriously.
We're in so much trouble otherwise.
Peter M
In honor of the 4th step to the ever approaching festival, my family and I recently celebrated by having lunch at La Rotonde in Paris. Immortalized in The Sun Also Rises, it was said of this Art Deco café that “No matter what café in Montparnasse you ask a taxi driver to bring you to from the right bank of the river, they always take you to the Rotonde.”
Ducking out of the Vavin Metro station onto Blvd. Montparnasse and into the café, we escaped a very cold and very wet and very Paris spring rain. As our fabulous lunch arrived, I awkwardly shifted in my wooden chair, and finished off an already cracked chair railing. Examining the broken chair, I discovered that in the process, I had ripped open my pants – in that place you don’t want to rip your pants. Upon inspection – by me and about 300 other patrons - it was confirmed that the tear was large, obvious, and not repairable.
Even hardened and implacable Parisians could not resist a quick smile. Rather than wave my boxers at the Sixth Arrondissement, it was decided that my rain coat would serve better as a barrier tied around my waist for the modest, than for protection from the weather. It was all very un-Hemingway-esque.
None of this was left unnoticed by my eight (8) year old son (Sam), who led my wife and I to now protein fueled and uncontrollable laughter, and to multiple jokes at my expense. It ended up being one of those long, hard, and teary laughs which compels you to say “whew” when concluded. It was well worth the loss of my (costly) black chinos.
At its heart, the Festival of San Fermín is about a search for that kind of laugh with family and friends. No matter how many times you tell the story, a great morning run is really only between you and the herd. A good laugh – which is easy to find in Pamplona – is why I am compelled to return every year.
Peter M
July 17, 2007 -- The Final Step of 2007
After this, we won’t see you until January 2008, to start down the staircase countdown. Ari and I returned in moderately fit condition, with some minor and greatly exaggerated scrapes. By the way, have I showed you my shin? Make sure you look at our new photographs under the “In Harm’s Way” tag. Drop us a note about your exploits to thephillypena@comcast.net.
BULL OF THE YEAR: THE FIFTH (5TH) MIURA. The Fifth (5th) Bull of the Feria on July 8, 2007, of the Miura Ganadería (Sevilla), demonstrated qualities celebrated by the Philadelphia Peña and Taurino Club. For our money, this toro bravo exhibited bravery (including its brief absence from the body and return to shoulders square standing). We hold this bull dear, and were better for seeing its contest.
RUN OF THE YEAR: 07 July 08. We both had best personal runs ever on the 11th with the Jandilla. However, the Saturday run with bulls from Dolores Aguirre was among the most memorable in several years. Because of record crowds, the run started 5-8 minutes late, to the concern of those waiting. We started on Telefonica, and made it into the ring, where the crowd was the largest I’ve seen. There was a disconcerting gap between the initial three (3) cabestros and the initials bulls. But the sheer size of the crowd made this the running of the tourists and the Run of the Year, and we’d all be well served if it never happens again.
DESSERT OF THE YEAR: BODEGÓN ALEJANDRO. This is easy. 07 July 08. French toast soaked in egg yolk and served with cheese ice cream. Yum yum yum. Really.
NEW FRIEND OF THE YEAR: THIS GUY. We can’t remember his name. We didn’t get his contact information. We don’t know what town he’s from. In Pamplona, it is not uncommon to make unnamed friends, who forever remain “remember that guy? You know, that guy.” His enthusiasm and respect for the event embody how and why an American presents himself for la fiesta. And he really cracked us up, too.
MATADOR OF THE YEAR: EL CID. A true aficionado may scoff at the “ear-a-thon” on 07 July 11 for the feria with Jandilla bulls. Frankly, we enjoyed the relaxed rules, and the award of three (3) ears on bulls 2 and 4 to El Cid, who was actually carried out of the ring. We know – it wasn’t Joselito. But we like El Cid. 
MEAL OF THE YEAR: GORRITI. During San Fermin, this is always a tough call. In San Sebastian, we visited Gorriti, at c/San Juan, on the corner of c/Lorenzio. They opened early for us, and served us a righteous dinner. Simple things done right always beat “cuisine” and its progeny. I am not a food critic and lack the use of adjectives needed in that line. However, this was serious good food.
Thanks -- and see you in a few months.
Peter