The Philadelphia Peña and Taurino Club
Our Guide to the Festival of San Fermìn, Pamplona
BABY BULLS. Immediately after the morning run, three (3) year old bulls with capped horns are released into the bull ring with malice in their hearts. This is known as the vaquilla. Get into the ring, and lay down in the front of the “gate of fear,” from where the bulls are to be released. Generally, the baby bull will jump right over you. If he doesn't, its like a horse stepped on you. So, it's win-win. On weekends, the crowds are too big for enjoying this. But, during the week, you can usually get a couple of passes with the bull with your newspaper or panuelo. It's an opportunity to get a closer examination of a bull, and has actually helped us in the encierro. Find some open space, and keep your eyes on the bull. Try to get him to chase you. Normally, the baby gets someone badly, but not seriously. However, in 2006, American Ray Ducharme was paralyzed when awkwardly thrown. A cabestro is released into the ring to guide the baby back, so don’t panic like it’s going to hurt you. This is as far as Hemingway ever got to actually running with the bulls, in days when there were far fewer participants in the ring. Even today, it has a real international vibe, with fewer locals, and with a lot of hand shaking and back patting.
BREAKFAST. The market is indoors, open right after the morning run, and in a circular building to the right of the Ayuntamiento (the Town Hall), if you're looking at the town hall from the front. Look for local cheese and glorious pastry. Pine for morning churros at a “factory” in the narrow lane leading to the market (its ovens rest right against a Roman wall), where the line winds forever. Are they selling concert tickets, too? But, yes, they’re excellent. We also enjoy breakfast at Café Iruna (Pl. del Castillo 44), which is the café from The Sun Also Rises.
BALLOONS. Immediately after the morning run, hot air balloons appear over the city. Sitting in Plaza Castillo, smugly satisfied with the morning conquest, with a crystal clear blue sky, and a glass of freshly squeezed jugo de naranja – man – I love watching those balloons. So, if you’re reading this, and you know how to get a ride in one, please let me know.
Clip 1.
EL FANDI. David “El Fandi” Fandila is the epitome of the matador celebrated at la fiesta. Almost always present for the Feria del Toro, El Fandi never disappoints. He is the equivalent of a blue collar Philadelphia athlete. Think Rocky in tight pants. El Fandi performs all three (3) acts of the bullfight, including placement of both banderilleros with the same hand. It’s spine ting-ling-ly awesome. If you're lucky, you’ll see him on his knees 'a la Vernica.' He’s fierce and heroic and noble and courageous. Alone, he’s worth flying to Pamplona to see. Once, outside his limo, I stood about a meter away from him. Too cool!
RURAL SPORTS. At 12 p.m. daily at the Plaza de los Fueros (a little hike from the old city, but near a cool Chinese restaurant & the carnival rides), the city holds “Deportes Rural.” Wow, it's 1980's Strongman Contests on EPSN. There’s "carry giant rocks," and chainsawing upside down. Giant guys from tiny mountain towns chop wood, real fast. There's a lot of grunting and guys named "Sven" with really, really blond hair. This is worth a quick visit every year, especially if you're in the mode to mock the accomplishments of others. Usually, by the time we wander down here, we are.
FIREWORK BULL. Nightly, at 10 p.m., from the Plaza de Santiago, the town’s children are brought out by their own parents to be chased by their own special bull. That’s on fire. And exploding. Basically, this guy carries a bull costume over his head that’s covered in fireworks and set on fire. Then he chases kids. Down tight alleys at night with giant crowds. It sounds safe, right? My shirt has caught fire, but only a couple of times. This requires a look at the video.
Toro de Fuego 1 Toro de Fuego 2 Toro de Fuego 3
Check out Sam's subherd 2008 run with the toro de fuego here.
FIREWORKS. Every night, at 11 p.m., a different city sponsors a presentation of Fuegos Artificiales. In the spirit of competition, they fortunately try to out-duel each other. Some nights, they’re spectacular. Some nights you’ll say, “Those were the greatest fireworks I’ve ever seen.” Some nights, they shake the ribs out of your chest. Some nights, you'r proud you're Spanish. Wait. All I can say is, thank you Pamplona.
Fireworks Clip 1 Fireworks Clip 2
HOTEL MAISONNAVE. Throughout the festival, the Hotel Maisonnave sponsors lectures on the encierro and the bullfight. There’s a lecture at 9 a.m. in Spanish & 9:30 a.m. in English as to the run, and at 21:30 as to the bullfight.
PLAZA DE LA CRUZ CONCERTS. Every night, music and dancing are held at the Plaza de la Cruz at 20:00 during San FermIn. I think you have to be aged 80+ to dance, and the music and atmosphere is strictly old-time-y Pamplona. Honestly, we danced with a few old ladies. Local kids play on the swings (including mine), and you can wrestle someone’s grandpa for a spot on the benches. Plus, if you have to pick just one night, chose the local band "Carisma." Trust me, and you’ll thank me later. MUSIC. In the festival program, you will find notice of non-stop music. That’s the official music, and 'great. When a child is born in Pamplona, it's named, and then assigned a musical instrument. For instance, “His name is Eric, and he plays the trombone.” Fathers say, "I hope it's a boy and the tuba." At midnight, you can usually find a truly awful euro-techno-garbage concert with lasers and smoke machines. The spontaneous and unorganized music is what makes the Festival of San Fermìn truly special. My personal favorite is when that peña (I don't know which) plays the theme from the A-Team. If you hear music, just follow it. This is Ray Mouton's advice. For example, "What's that? I think I'll walk over there." See a parade? Just join in. I guarantee you’ll have to quit before they do.
Click here: Late Night Music. Click here: Post Fiesta Music. Click here: Bullfight Music.
NIGHT OF THE DRUMS. Watch for the stickers that announce the Night of the Drums. Then meet at the Plaza de Santiago at midnight. Everyone else will be there too with their drums. It's hundreds, if not thousands, of drums, including a drum ten (10) feet tall. You can usually buy a toy drum to join in. Then everyone bangs on them in unison and marches around town. You might as well join in – it sounds like it's in your hotel room anyway. Again, this is one of those situations where you’ll collapse before they do. The custom was started by a local mozo who said "I know the festival is loud, but I wish it could be the louderest."